Nusa Penida was on our wish list already last year but ran out of time. You’ve probably heard of Nusa Penida, a magnificent island right next to Bali. It’s known as the Bali getaway, like you need one 🙂 What makes Nusa Penida so special though is its beautiful and rugged nature. It is much less touristic than Bali, though the infrastructure and inflow of tourists is fast growing every year. This post will not only give you an overview of the main things to do and see but also what time each site is best to visit and how to avoid the crowds at Nusa Penida.
But before jumping right into it you need to be aware before heading out:
Plan at least 2 full days to visit all the main sights. Yes, there are daily tours from Bali but you will only see glimpses and will fell rushed. Nusa Penida is a small island with bad roads and also full of surprises. Initially we planned to visit both Nusa Penida and Nusa Lembongan during our 3 nights stay away from Bali but ended up staying the whole time on Penida instead.
We are staying in Bali for a few months and rented out a scooter for long-term. We heard that it is possible to take the ferry from Padang Bai to Nusa Penida and that it takes only an hour to get there. Since we have a powerful scooter which we are used of driving around, we decided to take this option. Bad idea!
The ferry was super late in both directions (like 6 hours), there is no real schedule as even the officials there don’t know when the boat comes (if it even does) the police was crooked and wanted a bribe, the staff was not friendly. Long story short – it was one hell of a ride and we ended up spending 2 days for this supposedly good alternative. Instead go for the fast boat from Sanur, rent out a bike in Nusa Penida and don’t waste time and nerves like we did!
The main road on Nusa Penida is in great condition. However, to get to all the beautiful spots around the island you need to take trails which are the worst we’ve seen. Even worst that the ones in Laos. Nusa Penida has 40 years old concrete and trails with countless holes, so bumpy ride guaranteed regardless if you’re traveling by car or driving your own scooter. If you are not an experienced driver with scooter, I highly recommend you to take a guided tour instead.
Since Nusa Penida is becoming more and more popular, you have to plan your wisely not to be rolling as most of other travelers. As in Angkor Wat in Cambodia, do the opposite most people are doing! Here’s how.
The signature T-Rex hills and beach are even more spectacular in real life. You can take in the scenery from above or you can also go down on the beach itself.
From the platform where everybody’s taking photos continue your way up, and find more remote places for you to enjoy the view.
The way down is very steep and not for everyone, since you will get muddy. If you decided to do the walk, make sure to take water with you. We met one girl who was totally dehydrated and gave her our water since she could barely walk. The view from below is not as special though when walking down there are some great angles of the T-Rex hill formations.
Since this is the main sight people rush to it first thing when they get there, usually in the morning. The sight gets really busy from around 9 AM to 3 PM when all the big groups rush in. We went there for sunset and there were not many people. It’s a perfect scenery with the Kelingking lighting up in warm orange colors, truly memorable!
These two sights are right next to each other. The trail leading up to them is probably the most challenging on the island. So if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere 🙂
Angel’s Billabong is a natural infinity pool carved in between the rocky beach.
Broken Beach is a beach surrounded by rocks almost in full circle. You can view the beach from the top only, since it is not accessible. Right by Broken Beach is also a great sight to spot mantas.
Go there early morning, like really early; 7.30 or 8.00 AM at latest. And do take into account that a few kilometers on the trail don’t mean 5 minutes but more like half on hour. There are two reasons for that:
We weren’t sure whether to do the snorkeling trip while on Nusa Penida, but happy we decided to do it! Having already seen mantas in the Komodo National Park in the Eastern Indonesia, we came to the them even closer here and it was truly memorable.
We booked the group tour through our hotel (even small guesthouses offer this tour) and had the speed boat. Since the other couple cancelled last minute, we had the boat all to ourselves which was great. The cost for a 2 – 3 hours tour is 15 EUR per person which is a great deal.
The highlights were swimming with mantas from really up close near Broken Beach, swimming with the colorful fishes at Crystal Bay and the underwater Buddhist temple close to Nusa Lembongan. Beware that currents are quite strong during the trip, especially at the sight of the underwater Buddhist temple – that was so out of this world and definitely one of the rare places in the world that you can see it! We’ve heard that boats don’t go there everyday due to weather conditions, so do ask in advance. It is a wonderful sight that you hopefully will not miss!
Again, early in the morning, sorryyyy.. 🙂 Seriously, the mantas mostly come out close to the shore in the morning and you have to be there. Our tour started at 8 AM and we got back at 10.30 AM. Have a some fruit before heading out and enjoy a full brunch after the swim.
This is one of the few beaches on the island which are great for bathing since there are not many waves and the currents are weak. Crystal Bay is always quite crowded and it’s not the go to remote beach.
We were at Crystal Bay while snorkeling in the morning and came back in late afternoon to watch the sunset. It’s a great place to relax, grab that Bintang and have a power nap before continuing your Nusa Penida adventures.
The sight is lesser known to foreign visitors but is very known among the locals due to the temple at the bottom. Since it is a sacred place you will need to wear a sarong which you can also rent at the entrance. The temple and waterfalls are nice but the views leading down the them makes this sight truly worth visiting. It is a steep way down through narrow ladders and paths so watch your step.
You can head out here after your morning visit of Angel’s Billabong and Broken Beach. The locals have many ceremonies at the temple everyday so it can get really crowded. Ask your hotel if there are any important events prior visiting and you should be fine.
It’s one of the few points on the Eastern part of the island but well worth the trip! After seeing dreamy photos of the Rumah Pohon Tree Houses we were considering booking an overnight stay there. The ratings however are the worst though, mostly due to unkind staff and poor sanitary conditions, so we skipped it. Still you should go visit the dreamy place to enjoy one of the best views Nusa Penida has to offer and looks a lot like Raja Ampat.
You can do it throughout the whole day, since most travelers don’t make it to the East 🙂 My recommendation though is to go for sunset if this is possible.
Food
The vegan scene is much less apparent in Nusa Penida compared to Bali. However, we found a gem – Vegan Soul Kitchen and returned there every time we could. Kind staff and great food, especially their Gado Gado despite the short dirt track on the way. Other restaurants are mostly by the main road but do not have many vegan options and most of them not tasty at all.
Accommodation
Nusa Penida is not so developed so keep your expectations low. We stayed at one guesthouse which was clean but very basic. With the island developing more comfortable and luxury accommodation options will probably follow soon.
Withdraw your money on Bali
Credit cards are often not accepted, so you need to carry cash. Since there are not many ATMs on the island, it’s best to take out cash on Bali and save you the trouble on Nusa Penida.
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Hi, when its the best time or months to visit Nusa Penida? have u been to Lombok as well?
thanks
April or October are pretty cool - it's shoulder season, not much rain, not as crowded as in the summer months.
No, Lombok's for next time :)