Koh Tao was the island I was looking for the most during our South Thailand trip. Koh Tao is the mecca for scuba diving lessons, since getting certified is much cheaper compared to other places. With our Open Water PADI certification already under out belt from the Philippines we were looking for good dives and nice scenery during our 5 days stay. Despite the dry season it rained heavily for the most part of our trip, so with poor visibility in deep waters diving was not an option this time around. Instead we focused on finding Koh Tao’s best beaches and viewpoints which are truly spectacular!
We’ve been traveling South East Asia for more than 3 months and have been driving a scooter for the most part with not much problem. With only 21 square km (8 square miles), Koh Tao is about 10 times smaller than Koh Samui. Getting around this small island really doesn’t take much time but it has the worst roads we’ve seen, similar to those in Vang Vieng, Laos. Narrow bumpy turns, large holes, sand in the middle of the road. It sometimes felt like a scooter parkour event 🙂 In our case everything was fine but we have heard about people falling off and injuring themselves badly. Also the scooter rental companies on the island have a reputation of ripping people off and having false claims, so make sure you take photos before renting. On top of that it’s also the safest to rent it through the hotel you’re staying.
Koh Tao has many beautiful beaches and yes, they do not get crowded! 🙂 The downside is that you have to pay for most of them though but most are totally worth it. Since a picture is worth more than a thousand words, check our favorite 8 Koh Tao beaches listed in order and tips how to get to access them.
#1: Jansom bay
Our favorite beach on Koh Tao island and perhaps even wider. Park at the Charm Churee Villa and walk towards the beach. The fee is around 5 EUR but you’ll enjoy this one as not many people know about it. When we visited, there was no one collecting the entrance fee, so it was free in our case! It’s also a great for snorkeling.
#2: Koh Nang Yuan
Visiting this tiny island is a must when in Koh Tao. It’s in fact made up of 3 islands connected by a sand bar. It’s just a 15 minutes boat ride from Koh Tao, there’s also a small entrance fee. Be sure to get there when it opens which is either at 8 AM or 9 AM. In our case we were told it opens at 8 AM but had to wait an hour for the actual opening time at 9 AM. When the gate opens head to the viewpoint and breathe in the beautiful sight in unfolding. Truly magical! After that hit the beach and put on your snorkel gear and explore sea life.
The island got really packed with large catamarans coming from Koh Samui and Koh Phangan at around 10.30 AM. Hundreds of scuba divers in lifejackets, making it much less magical than when you arrive. A good strategy is also to come in the afternoon when most of the people already leave but note that the park closes at 5 pm. Alternatively you could also sleep on the island’s resort but due to its abysmal ratings we decided not do it.
Please note that the island is really trying to remain spotless and garbage free so bringing plastic water bottles is not allowed – you will be checked at the entrance. Leave only footsteps.
#3: Sai Nuan beach
The beach can be accessed by a very steep road or on foot from Jansom bay. I recommend you to walk from Jansom bay and enjoy the views along the way. The beach is small and nice with beautiful rocks on both ends.
#4: Shark bay
Beautiful white sand beach, ideal for relaxing, reading, sleeping… or seeing sharks!! We have seen baby sharks in Indonesia last year and wanted to see sharks the first day we got to Koh Tao. Having talked to dive shops at Sairee beach, the best way to see blacktip reef sharks is in shallow waters so need to dive. You can take a snorkel tour with the long-boat or start from the OK Bungalow hotel (just OK.. 🙂 ) and swim towards the boats which are really near the shore. The tactic is supposedly quite simple – follow the crowd since there’s a higher chance of spotting them. Unfortunately, we arrived around 11 AM which was too late as stormy weather conditions followed soon. We’ve also learned that the best is to be there at around 8-9 AM since the sharks leave the area right after.
#5: Tanote Bay
Surrounded by large rocks (boulders) Tanote is one of the nicest beaches on Koh Tao. The largest one is in the middle of the bay and is great for rock jumping. If you’re brave enough that is 😉 The beach is easily accessible from the main road though there is a steep climb on the way back.
#6: Aow Leuk beach
The place is great for snorkelling and relaxing on one of the many sun beds. It’s easy to find and an entrance fee of 5 EUR per person is charged.
#7: Freedom beach
Right next to the John Suwan “hike” lies this narrow fine sand small beach. It’s one of the more busiest beaches on Koh Tao but well below others’ islands standards like Koh Samui.
#8: Sairee beach
The longest beach on Koh Tao with many bars, restaurants and dive shops. This is also the best starting place for Koh Nang Yuan and great way to watch the sunset.
John-Suwan viewpoint
We’re crazy about viewpoints and this one was pretty spectacular . The John-Suwan is Koh Tao’s best viewpoint and also one of our favorites on our Thai trip probably only behind the one in Ao Thong National Park (link). As you saw Koh Tao is home to beautiful beaches and is also hilly. This is all captured from this stunning viewpoint. The climb is about 10 minutes and fairly easy also due the provided ropes on the way.
Other
Already mentioned the viewpoint at Koh Nang Yuan, make sure you don’t skip it! If time allows check out Koh Tao’s Mango viewpoint and Deisha viewpoints. Mango is a good spot for sunsets located in the hilly north, while Deisha is quite close to two large beaches and is not so high.
Not that many options for vegetarian / vegan food though we did ended up finding a cool place. Vegeta Bowl is near the main road and has delicious fresh healthy bowls. We went there a few times and our favorite is the Mexican bowl, though the Zen bowl came in close second 🙂 Right across the street you can get quality coffee (also with vegan milk) in a hipster place called May & Co. They also sell organic products from all over Thailand and the owner is really nice. If you fancy a cool cafe place on the beach, go to Cafe Culture; their vegan burger is top notch! For delicious falafels try Green Shelter.
The island is tiny so you can reach all the main points within a few minutes regardless of where you’re staying. Unless beach front is an absolute must that is 🙂 We stayed at La Cigale – a place in the nature, with nice views and 5 minutes walk from the Sairee beach look no further. We had our own villa consisting of two separate buildings – the living area and the cosy bedroom and open “jungly” feel bathroom. Named after the cicada, you’ll be in the midst of the cicada, bird and gecko orchestra. This really is music to our ears, that’s maybe why some of them decided to join us in the living room 🙂 So if you’re afraid of bugs, La Cigale is probably not the best pick for you but if you take it as a part of the experience you should be fine but we do recommend using mosquito nets. Another plus side is that the host Andre is very friendly, he’s a Deejay and knows the island well so ask him for tips.
Check out other travel tips from our adventures in Southern Thailand: the beautiful Khao Sok National Park, the ever so lively Krabi, the posh Koh Samui, the best view in Ang Thong National Park and the best vegan options on Koh Phangan.
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